157 days of Rome
I am just turning the key to enter my flat when Tan, the photographer from LA messages me inviting me to come to Piazza La Nova for 9:00. This is the very same pizzia where we start todays after school adventures. The weather is glorious so we decide to go on a photo walk to Trastevere, a hip residential neighbourhood. We set google maps and within seconds we are off. We are headed for a restaurant called Da Enzo that comes highly recommended, and seeing as it's only 12:00 we are prepared to work up an appetite taking some photos along the way. We meander through the market taking photos and investigating the fare on offer today. Perfectly plump fresh chillies make many appearances throughout the square and I am really tempted to buy some to cook with tonight! Alas time is ticking and we decide to continue on our journey to Trastevere, which is about at 25 minute walk. The noise of the market is fading behind us as we twist and turn through the cobbled maze. We are spat out into a small piazza with a fork in the road, and are just deliberating on which road to take when we meet poppy. That is to say, poppy meets us. Poppy is pretty large and very very friendly. While trying not to trip over her as she greets us enthusiastically I ask the gentlemen to whom she belongs if I can take her photo. Milo is extremely happy to oblige explaining that Poppy loves attention and poses with her whilst Tan and I take a few snaps. We are just thanking Milo when aother man approaches us. "Milo!" he coos. "Ahh Antonio!" Milo calls with a wide smile , beckoning him over towards us. Antonio makes no attempt at hiding the fact he finds it very amusing that Milo is being photographed like this on the street. "Milo! celebrity!" he teases. It turns out Milo is actually an orthodontist who studied at ucl in London. At least...I think that's what he was saying. the conversation was flowing very rapidly and it seemed like there wasn't a good time to revisit the topic!
We say goodbye to Antonio, Milo and Poppy and continue on our journey. As we arrive at Trastevere we can hear the restaurant before we can see it. If the street wasn't teaming with people waiting patiently to be seated you wouldn't know this place was anything special. The place is small without any decor to speak of and consists of a few inside tables and a few more lining the street. There is clearly a buzz about this place however and the owner is conducting waiters and customers in a complicated choreography of table moving and setting, order taking and, crowd control. Tan has a quiet word with the him A knowing nod between them and it looks like we are in. We wait 10 minutes for a sunny outside table.
We place our order and wait excitedly trying to catch a glimpse of other people's dishes as they fly onto the tables. We don't wait long and it really is love at first bite. The food is...sublime. We dive into our array of dishes and suddenly Tan and I are the last ones on the street. We make it through two primi, two pastas and finish triumphantly with a dessert. It was a solid effort from us both. A street violinist is playing softly and as we sit back in our chairs we really didn't want to leave this spot. To say enzo lived up to our expectations would be an understatement.
Neither of us made a serious dent in our pasta, so as we trundle back through the streets of Trastavere we hold our takeaway bags close to us. This pasta masterpiece may just be my most precious possession and with Rome's infamous pickpockets in the vicinity, I am guarding it with my life. The light is a little flat now so we pack the cameras up and we go our separate ways. I head back to Monti via the Jewish quarter and take in the scenery, wandering slowly through the ruins and monuments. I stop for a cappuccino and take the opportunity to do today's homework whilst watching the sun sink behind the gilded streets.
I arrive home and see Tan's message. I am really keen to see the Piazza by night so I let myself in and start getting ready. Every time I turn the shower on I say a little prayer to the hot water fairy. She has been very generous to me so far, for which I am extremely grateful. I'm back out the door in record time. I walk to the piazza, which takes 33 minutes and call Tan to come out from his hotel. I see him on the side of the street and we start towards the square. We've barely said hello when we simultaneously start jabbering incoherently about how good lunch was, but how we also fear we may never be able to eat again! We hit a few bars and sample some interesting cocktails. I order a basil and chilli margarita and as the waitress swoops across and puts it down in front of me I see it is garnished with a big fat chilli like the ones I wanted to try in the market this morning! Its absolutely delicious with a really potent infusion of basil and a serious hum from the chilli that makes my lips and throat feel warm and tingly. This really is the chilli on top of a wonderful day.