Today started the way all great days start. At the laundrette. I feel very lucky to have a laundrette on my road as schlepping a massive bag of my clothes around town in front of the ever so chic members of my neighbourhood is a bit embarrassing even for me. I have realised that the residents of Monti don't do casual. I tried to get dinner in a pair of yoga pants and a hoodie and it didn't go so well. I was still eating my main course when I was given my bill and asked to finish as soon as possible. This is so new to me. In the UK and the States activewear is acceptable clothing for cafes and casual restaurants especially on the weekend. Italy, or at least Monti is a little behind. So I have put the active wear aside for now even though it pains me, as running errands in activewear is so convenient. I find if I wear a dress and sandles I don't get treated with as much suspicion and not wishing to stick out anymore than I already do I have conceded this point. RIP comfy breathable sports wear and hello blisters, being trusted to walk around a shop unsupervised, and looking like I'm always going to a wedding. Swings and roundabouts I guess.

Rant over and back to the laundrette. I admit I had more anxiety than might be considered normal as I embarked on this particular task. When I was travelling around Europe a few summers ago I went to a laundrette to get my clothes washed and accidentally employed the services of a homeless man who was hanging out there to do my washing for me. He told me he would do it for a bit more money than it costs to use the machines alone and seeing as I didn't know how to operate the machines I agreed. I thought he worked there and when I realised he didn't I didn't have the heart to retract my request as the money would obviously help him out a lot and I believe strongly in the dignifying act of work and particularly entrepreneurship. Some of the clothes survived, and others of them are now being worn by some children someplace with a very mature fashion sense. All in all it was quite an odd experience and a little bit stressful as it reduced my wardrobe options for the rest of the trip quite drastically. I am here for 5 months with one suitcase only so I really wanted to retain full functionality in that arena. When I entered the laundrette on this fine Saturday afternoon ( yes, very long lie in!) I was keen to establish the facts prima facie. I interview the man who is posing as employee. I establish beyond reasonable doubt that Ali is a bona fide affiliate of this enterprise. There are lots of signs around advertising prices and giving instructions on how to use the machines. Ali offers to do my laundry for 25 Euros. I really want to spend today exploring and not waiting on the floor of a laundrette so I agree despite my inner voice warning of the lack of official literature advertising this particular service. When I come back to see Ali at the agreed time I am greeted with wonderful soapy smells and a wide smile. I am so glad this worked out and that I have a friendly and helpful local dry cleaner so close by. I have already payed so I reach to take the bag but Ali holds on to it. He wants to take me out to dinner tonight despite being at least 50 years older than me. I sigh. SO CLOSE. So close to a normal and non stressful laundry experience. They say third time is a charm. Can't wait.

I had spent the day at the coliseum, and then wandering around Monti capitalising on the fact that I was appropriately dressed by going into all the quaint artisanal shops and chatting with the owners. Sandra had been making candles since 6am and told me she wasn't closing till 8pm. She was struggling because her back was killing her. I offered to help her, and was totally serious as I was waiting for the laundry to be done but she laughed said it was ok and she was going to take a break now. She showed me all the beautifully intricate candles she had made and I promised to come back next weekend when I hadn't spent quite so much on a very personal laundry service.

So today was a mixed bag, but I am enjoying getting more of an insight into what it means to be a citizen here and how cultural norms are occasionally at odds with my own from across the pond. Oh and yeh, the colosseum was...big?